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Writer's pictureLockt On Art

Weathering the AH-1Z Viper

Weathering the AH-1Z Viper, I started with a pin wash. Usually, I go with black or burnt umber, or both. In this case, I used both but added more brown than black and then heavily thinned it with artist turpentine.

Burnt umber and black oil paint wash.
Burnt umber and black oil paint wash.

The mix was applied to the model using a small, fine-tipped brush, which allowed for precision and control during the process. This technique involved working the mixture into the recesses of the model, ensuring that it settled into every nook and cranny to enhance the overall depth and realism of the piece. The mix was guided along panel lines, allowing the color to flow smoothly into these defined areas, enhancing structural details that might otherwise go unnoticed. Additionally, the wash was applied around raised details, such as rivets and surface textures, which further contributed to the model's dimensionality.

Pin wash applied to the surface details.
Pin wash applied to the surface details.

Once the wash was semi dry, I used a clean brush dipped in turpentine to wipe away any unwanted blotches and stains, generally tiding up the surfaces.

The area after the excess wash had been cleaned off.
The area after the excess wash had been cleaned off.

Subsequently, I created weather and grime streaks with black and white oil paint. I applied small dabs of paint near the top of the panels and then used a clean brush to streak them downward until they were barely noticeable. I also added horizontal streaks on the rotor blades and wings.


Black and white oil paint used to create weather streaks.
Black and white oil paint used to create weather streaks.
Weather streaking on the wing.
Weather streaking on the wing.

To lighten specific panels, I used an oil dot filter technique. I dotted white paint on a section and

blended it with a dry, firm brush until it covered the area and was nearly invisible. This resulted in a lighter hue and enhanced the contrast between the panels, adding visual interest.

Adding an oil dot filter to change hue.
Adding an oil dot filter to change hue.

I applied the same method to create scuff marks on the wing and exhaust stains, utilizing black, white, and burnt umber.

Crew walking on this area would scuff the surface.
Crew walking on this area would scuff the surface.

Exhaust staining using black and burnt umber.
Exhaust staining using black and burnt umber.

Once the oil weathering was finished, I used Mr. Hobby to apply a flat clear coat on the model, sealing in the work and removing the sheen. I allowed it to cure completely overnight.

Then, I began dry brushing a silver from Vallejo onto the exposed metallic parts, including the main rotor mast, the tail rotor, and the missile racks.

Dry brushing silver to add wear and tear on a metallic surface.
Dry brushing silver to add wear and tear on a metallic surface.

The last weathering detail I applied was soot residue from the exhausts, utilizing black smoke pigment from Mig.

Creating soot with pigments.
Creating soot with pigments.

Once all the painting was completed, it was time to attach the clear components. I affixed the clear lenses to the Hellfire missiles using Kristal Klear, a product from Microscale designed for clear parts.

I also mounted the different lights on the fuselage and tail, using Tamiya's clear red and clear green paints for the wing lights.

Cutting the clear lenses from the sprue.
Cutting the clear lenses from the sprue.
Using Kristal Klear to affix the lenses.
Using Kristal Klear to affix the lenses.

Adding the tail light.
Adding the tail light.
This light painted with clear red.
This light painted with clear red.


Wing lights painted with clear green.
Wing lights painted with clear green.

Next, it was time to take off the masks from the cockpit, canopy, and targeting system. I retouched the areas surrounding the cockpit with black grey paint, added the armor plates to the doors and secured the canopy in position.

Unmasking the cockpit.
Unmasking the cockpit.
The canopy masks left nice sharp lines.
The canopy masks left nice sharp lines.
A view of the inside of the canopy.
A view of the inside of the canopy.
Installing the door armor plates.
Installing the door armor plates.
Canopy glued into place.
Canopy glued into place.

I had used temporary panels for the targeting system to protect the good ones from tape damage. These were taken off, and the actual panels were installed, with the entire unit then glued into the nose. The 20mm canon was also installed.

Installing the final panels.
Installing the final panels.
Mounting the targeting system.
Mounting the targeting system.

I added a connecting wire to the missile racks using some flexible wire and painted them black.

Flexible wire for the connecting cable.
Flexible wire for the connecting cable.
Cable installed and being painted.
Cable installed and being painted.

All of the weapons were then installed onto the wings. Thus finishing the model and bringing the project to a close.

Attaching the AIM-9 missiles.
Attaching the AIM-9 missiles.

Building the AH-1Z has been a long and rewarding journey, filled with its fair share of challenges. I'm thrilled with how it turned out, and it looks amazing on display. This model is the largest and most detailed I've ever made. The process required a lot of patience, dedication, and research. I paid close attention to every detail, from the intricate cockpit instruments to the finely crafted targeting system, ensuring everything was as accurate as possible. It has led to a realistic finish that I am very happy with.

Here are a couple of links for this build:

YouTube Build video https://youtu.be/R3zsFLw-r7I

A shot of the finished model.
A shot of the finished model.

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